Walking medieval Pilgrim’s routes has been one of my favourite walking activities. In fact I walked the route from Winchester to Canterbury, as a final preparation to walking the entire coastline of Britain, a few years ago. Since then in-between longer walks I have walked three times to St. James’s shrine at Santiago de Compostella, in north west Spain, following routes from Le Puy in France - 1,100 miles; from Seville in Spain - 650 miles and one forgotten route in Portugal - 600 miles. But, I never neglected Britain’s rich heritage and have completed many here, including three to Walsingham in Norfolk.

In fact it was on my most recent walk from London to Walsingham - 160 miles - that I stumbled upon Waltham Abbey, just off my route. Here are the remains of the last Abbey to be dissolved by Henry 8th. and was during medieval times a major pilgrimage centre to the Holy Cross. King Harold is reputedly buried here and Queen Eleanor’s body was laid here on her route to London. A few weeks later after walking around the south eastern part of Hertfordshire, I explored St. Albans, and a pilgrim walk was born.

St. Alban was England’s first martyr and his shrine has been a place of pilgrimage for more than 1,700 years. The more I researched I became positive that pilgrims would have travelled from Waltham Abbey to St. Albans Abbey - now huge cathedral. There was also the added connection of St. Albans being a place where Queen Eleanor’s body was laid overnight on her burial procession to London. Each night’s stop from Nottinghamshire, an Eleanor Cross was built. The one at St. Albans has gone but the site is there and although she was lain in Waltham Abbey, a cross was built and still survives today at the cross roads at Waltham Cross. She was then carried to Charing Cross and the one there is a 19th. century interpretation of the original cross.

With these themes in mind, I planned a route of around 26 miles from Waltham Abbey to St. Albans shrine and cathedral. The terrain is flat and decided it could be comfortably done in a day - the miles float by! There are several inns along the way but no accommodation, except at South Mimms, two miles from the route. There is accommodation at Waltham Abbey and plenty at St. Albans. The start is reached by train to Waltham Cross and a short bus ride to Waltham Abbey. The return is by train from St. Albans.

Early one saturday morning I stood outside Waltham Abbey church, touched the west door and waved to the statue of King Harold above, and set off. Within fifteen minutes I was walking along the River Lee Navigation; a magnificent waterway from Limehouse Basin, beside the River Thames, to Hertford - 26 miles. A short distance along it I left it to continue walking north westerly to St. Albans. First passing through Cheshunt and the historic Cedar Park - this was where the Temple Bar, London’s remaining gate was for 100 years until recently being restored near St. Paul’s cathedral. Beyond the houses I gained the New River, built in the early 17th. century to bring clean water to London, and still in use today.

Leaving the river behind I entered woodland following delightful tracks to the Soper Viaduct and onto Northaw (9 miles completed) and its historic green and Victorian church. The next section was all along paths and tracks, crossing the M1, before gaining the idyllic and peaceful hamlet of North Mimms and St. Mary’s church (15 miles). The latter is the most complete 14th. century church in England and a real gem, with impressive basses and monuments, especially of Lord Somer, a former Chancellor of the Exchequer. Closeby is North Mymms Park with the finest late Elizabethan house in Hertfordshire.

The route continues across parkland before walking through Colney Heath with inns and shops to Tyttenhanger. Now with four miles left to go you circle around the western side of St. Albans past the Verulam golf course, before gaining the main street and ascending to the west door of the cathedral.

Here I would recommend a morning spent exploring the city and perhaps, like I did, enjoy a service beside St. Albans shrine. Below the cathedral is the massive abbey gatehouse and beyond impressive Roman remains. For those who complete the Pilgrim route, a special signed certificate is available.

I am often asked why I moved south, after spending much of my life in the Derbyshire Peak District area. When my partner of twenty years suddenly dropped dead infront of me, I had to rethink my life. I moved to London for here I was born and more importantly wanted new challenges and places to explore. So the walking doesn’t stop, the list of walks to do gets longer and longer. I shall soon be off to follow the Archbishop of Canterbury’s route of 994 A.D. from Canterbury to Rome; about 1,100 miles. And then there is ......

May I wish you Happy walking and hope you enjoy the pilgrimage and walk to St. Albans shrine.

John Merrill walk guides, badges and articles can now be seen on his expanding web site -
www,johnmerrillwalkguides.com

© John N. Merrill 2007.